Customer Reviews

Reviews 26 to 50 of 153
Page of 7
I have used masonry drills on stucco and it is a time consuming process to make lots of little holes, chisel them out without cracking the stucco or brick and then cutting through the plywood behind the stucco using a hole saw. With the Blue Boar stucco bit the tungsten carbide cutting teeth are massive and quickly chew their way through the stucco and keep right on going through the metal lath and through the wood sheathing, all in one pass. Takes one minute to make holes that used to take 30-40 minutes and no risk of damage to the stucco.

These Blue Boar masonry bits also work very well cutting holes in thick plaster, Hardie siding, FRP, and fiberglass. They cut much more quickly and last 20 times as long as a bi-metal hole saw. On one project I was cutting vent holes in fiber cement board and getting 4 holes per each bi-metal hole saw. I switched to the Blue Boar TCT stucco bit and cut dozens of holes in minutes and got the project back on schedule.
I have used masonry drills on stucco and it is a time consuming process to make lots of little holes, chisel them out without cracking the stucco or brick and then cutting through the plywood behind the stucco using a hole saw. With the Blue Boar stucco bit the tungsten carbide cutting teeth are massive and quickly chew their way through the stucco and keep right on going through the metal lath and through the wood sheathing, all in one pass. Takes one minute to make holes that used to take 30-40 minutes and no risk of damage to the stucco.

These Blue Boar masonry bits also work very well cutting holes in thick plaster, Hardie siding, FRP, and fiberglass. They cut much more quickly and last 20 times as long as a bi-metal hole saw. On one project I was cutting vent holes in fiber cement board and getting 4 holes per each bi-metal hole saw. I switched to the Blue Boar TCT stucco bit and cut dozens of holes in minutes and got the project back on schedule.
Worth the price , You will never need another dust cover!!
The can light fixtures we purchase have a sticker in them that says that the hole can be no larger than 6-1/4". However we end up enlarging the hole cut with a 6-1/4" hole saw because the fixture just doesn't fit. This hole saw at 6-3/8" leaves just enough space that the can light fixture fits. (Please note that Hole Pro also offers a shield kit the HP1156 Large shield kit to help contain the dust. You are usually using the hole saw overhead and it is important to keep dust out of your eyes and especially when you are drilling into concrete board.)
I can make holes up to 6" in diameter lots of ways. Larger than that there are very few choice and larger than 12" there is only two ways, by hand or with a Hole Pro X-425. When we have put 13" speakers into ceilings the X-425 is very fast to use and cleanup time is cut by 99%. We use the X-425 for 16" Solatubes and for making access holes. With a 16" round hole we can cut a new piece from sheetrock and have it mounted inside the hole with a tight fit and ready to mud and paint in 10 minutes or less.

Even our Super Hawg stud drills can drill with bi-metal hole saws only up to 6 inches in diameter. We have cut 15" speaker holes in particle board enclosures but I do not think that the drill would be powerful enough to make holes this large in plywood. Nothing takes more drill power to cut through than plywood.

For sheetrock or plaster ceilings this tool will save time cutting and in cleanup and we only need one guy to make the holes (used to have someone cut from the ceiling while a second person held a cardboard box up to the hole.
These hole saws cut through hardibacker like butter! Highly recommend!
I bought this after cheaping out and cutting a few holes by hand. That was an absolute mistake. After that experience I'm so glad I bought this thing. The holes it makes are perfectly sized for 4" recessed lights, and this thing will chew through ceiling plaster like nobody's business. I've cut through a few 100 year old nails and this hole-saw still has many uses left.

I did buy a similarly sized traditional Milwaukee bi-metal hole-saw which I used for cutting through thick wood. I didn't want to totally use this up chewing through wood. I can run that hole-saw backwards on lath/plaster but it still doesn't make cuts as clean as this hole saw.

Soon I'll be using this on a plaster ceiling with metal mesh and I have no doubts that this hole saw will do a great job.
as an HVAC contractor I been using it for years , clean cut and no mess . this is life saver.

Jackson Jackson about HSS Blade Set

These are very good for lay in ceiling tile, plastic and sheet rock don't use on plaster (which needs the tungsten carbide blades) I made that mistake and had to buy another set. I love the saw they fit.
We do a lot of roof penetrations through asphalt. Regular hole saws expire after a few uses. Blue boars last for dozens of jobs.
For my home theater upgrade project, I needed to drill multiple large holes in the ceiling for Dolby Atmos speakers in the ceiling. To add to the complexity of this, the ceiling is made of sandwiched drywall and MDF board. Also, the maximum thickness of speaker mounting tabs were less than both drywall and MDF added together. I was able to get around this by countersinking the speakers in the ceiling - drill 13.5" hole first in the drywall and then 12" in MDF for mounting. Like most folks here mentioned, be patient and use the clutch on the drill. First hole took probably 30 minutes, 4th one - 10. If you have a drill with multiple speeds - use the slower ("L" or "1") setting for more torque. Final result came out better than I expected.

In the end, is it expensive? Yes. Is it worth it? Absolutely. Being home owner that likes to do home improvement projects around the house, I'm sure it will come in handy in the future.
Every trade is prone to specific occupational hazards. Being exposed daily to
various sources of dust is bad for the only lungs you'll ever have. When work is
done in an inhabited dwelling (lots of recessed and ceiling fan lighting is done
in bedrooms) there is an additional incentive for protecting the lungs of your
customers as well as additional clean up labor. Beside wearing a respirator (which
only protects you), you now have the option to install this VACUUM ADAPTER on your
Hole Pro Shield cutting/dust catching tool. Sadly, most of the electricians do
not understand what dust is doing to their lungs before it is too late.

This vacuum adapter can be easily installed by drilling a hole with a hole saw
on the bottom of the Hole Pro transparent shield, fastening the adapter to the
shield with a plastic nut provided inside the adapter kit.

My Fein vacuum came with a RUBBER SLEEVE that makes an easy, fast connection
between the vacuum wand and the vacuum adapter. I have used electrical tape
wrapped around the bottom part of the adapter in order to make the connection
air tight, strong enough to hold the weight of the vacuum hose, and easy to
dis/connect. Great product, great company.
OMG, how did I live without this? Remember to clean the dust off of the drill bit shaft to keep it traveling smoothly in the up/down direction through the installed bearing.
Bought the Hole Pro arbor and shield kit to make holes for ceiling lights. For houses with plaster ceilings I find it safest to use the Blue Boar hole saw in the 6-3/8 inch size. The shield is large enough for a 9” hole saw if you have one that big. The depth of 2-1/4” means I can use it with very deep hole saws like the Blue Boar Mega ones which I use on both ceilings and walls on projects. Shield is very strong and should last for many years. Love the soft silicon rubber gasket that keeps the dust and shavings inside the shield – no need for a drop cloth.
Cut numerous 6" holes in drywall with this hole saw. All were perfect. Warning: Be sure to run your bit slowly. If you hit a joist or move the drill off axis so it binds this big hole saw, the drill will kick back hard enough to throw you off the ladder.
This cut through 3/16 stainless like a standard hole saw will cut aluminum. I like the spring loaded center that spit the cut out piece and saved the typical trying to pry out the scrap from a typical hole say. Use cutting fluid, or at least some wd40 to aid faster cutting and tool life.
The X-148 goes up to 6 inches. I have the X-230+ and this one has a shorter bar and smaller shield but it otherwise identical to its bigger brothers. When I need a hole size larger than 4" my choices at the local hardware store are limited to a 4-1/2 (maybe) and a 5" and a 6" size. If I need 5-3/8 or some other odd size for can lights or soffet vents or floor receptacles the Hole Pro is a life saver. I have even used it with a cordless drill to cut holes in solid oak flooring for flush mount receptacles.

Easy to use on sheetrock and plaster and with wood (though a little practice with a piece of scrap lumber is not a bad idea). High speed steel blades work better than the tungsten carbide for wood flooring but the kit comes with both kinds and changing them is quick.

The XL arbor is a good addition for cutting through tile with a carbide grit hole saw. Shield makes for straight boring and no dust anywhere.

Stanley Stanley about 1" Metal Hole Saw Cutter

This is the best bit I have bought for cutting holes in metal. Works in SS (310) and steel without issues. Seems to remain sharp through multiple cuts. I'm about 15 in on the blade, still like new.
I have used masonry drills on stucco and it is a time consuming process to make lots of little holes, chisel them out without cracking the stucco or brick and then cutting through the plywood behind the stucco using a hole saw. With the Blue Boar stucco bit the tungsten carbide cutting teeth are massive and quickly chew their way through the stucco and keep right on going through the metal lath and through the wood sheathing, all in one pass. Takes one minute to make holes that used to take 30-40 minutes and no risk of damage to the stucco.

These Blue Boar masonry bits also work very well cutting holes in thick plaster, Hardie siding, FRP, and fiberglass. They cut much more quickly and last 20 times as long as a bi-metal hole saw. On one project I was cutting vent holes in fiber cement board and getting 4 holes per each bi-metal hole saw. I switched to the Blue Boar TCT stucco bit and cut dozens of holes in minutes and got the project back on schedule.

The pilot bit is tipped with tungsten so it does its part for a long time. It is 8mm thick (1/4" pilot bits are only 6.35mm) and I have never broken one. Larger sizes of hole cutters use a 10mm pilot drill that would be nearly impossible to break. I use even the 6-1/4" size stucco hole cutter with a 18 volt DeWalt cordless drill and it provides more than enough power. There is also the option of getting the SDS adapter to use with a cutting head and it comes complete with a pilot bit and the ejection spring so you only need to add the cutter.

With a hammer drill the hammer action should be turned off. Unlike the core bits with the blunt carbide tips that rely on hammer action to pound their way through these cutters cut a lot faster and without the hammering the problem of cracking the stucco is eliminated completely.
I have used masonry drills on stucco and it is a time consuming process to make lots of little holes, chisel them out without cracking the stucco or brick and then cutting through the plywood behind the stucco using a hole saw. With the Blue Boar stucco bit the tungsten carbide cutting teeth are massive and quickly chew their way through the stucco and keep right on going through the metal lath and through the wood sheathing, all in one pass. Takes one minute to make holes that used to take 30-40 minutes and no risk of damage to the stucco.

These Blue Boar masonry bits also work very well cutting holes in thick plaster, Hardie siding, FRP, and fiberglass. They cut much more quickly and last 20 times as long as a bi-metal hole saw. On one project I was cutting vent holes in fiber cement board and getting 4 holes per each bi-metal hole saw. I switched to the Blue Boar TCT stucco bit and cut dozens of holes in minutes and got the project back on schedule.

The pilot bit is tipped with tungsten so it does its part for a long time. It is 8mm thick (1/4" pilot bits are only 6.35mm) and I have never broken one. Larger sizes of hole cutters use a 10mm pilot drill that would be nearly impossible to break. I use even the 6-1/4" size stucco hole cutter with a 18 volt DeWalt cordless drill and it provides more than enough power. There is also the option of getting the SDS adapter to use with a cutting head and it comes complete with a pilot bit and the ejection spring so you only need to add the cutter.

With a hammer drill the hammer action should be turned off. Unlike the core bits with the blunt carbide tips that rely on hammer action to pound their way through these cutters cut a lot faster and without the hammering the problem of cracking the stucco is eliminated completely.
I have been using the small shield kit for several years and was happy to see that I could get a larger shield to use with 6-3/8 carbide grit hole saws when making holes in plaster ceilings for recessed lights. The soft gasket on the edge of the shield traps 100% of the dust but the shield has a hole with a cap so a vacuum adapter can be installed for use with a HEPA vacuum where this is mandated as with lead paint and asbestos. Shield has a ball bearing insert so hole cutter spins on the arbor but not the shield.
I just recently got into wood working and most of my projects require various hole sizes. I acquired a dozen dozen hole saws by Lenox, Irwin, DeWalt, etc., to do my bidding, but after reading a couple of reviews on this kit and having some positive experience with a Lenox one tooth hole saw/cutter, I decided to give Blue Boar a shot. I'm pretty amazed at the work these hole saws can do. They have exceeded my expectations. I'm shocked that regular hole saws aren't done away with yet! These hole saws/cutters really make it easy and fast! MUCH MUCH faster than the regular hole saws you see in the stores today. I don't know why this design hasn't caught on???
Great hole saws, I've used them a half dozen times now. They cut like a chain saw, so there's lots of wood chips when the hole is made. It does put a little stress on the drill having only 4 cutting teeth and I have to use water pump pliers to get the chuck loose after using one of the larger hole saws. It saves a lot of time compared to using the standard hole saws and they don't smoke and overheat like the standard ones. Cleaning out the wood is effortless and sometimes I don't even need a screwdriver to clear it out.
I have now been using this tool for about 2 years and with no regrets .
It cuts holes just as advertised and it makes your life so much easier.
Clean and nice looking work .
Works great on flat surfaces and lasts forever.
Page of 7