0 $0.00
Customer Reviews
Reviews 51 to 75 of 153
This is so much quicker, easier, cleaner, and safer than using a jigsaw! I installed six recessed lights in under 30 minutes. I plan on installing about 40 more in my home using this tool.
I have used bargain versions of this concept but they always ended up doing damage and catching the material - causing the tool to quickly and dangerously walk away from the hole.
I see this tool outliving every house I renovate, especially since the hard-shell case keeps it safe when not in use.
I have used bargain versions of this concept but they always ended up doing damage and catching the material - causing the tool to quickly and dangerously walk away from the hole.
I see this tool outliving every house I renovate, especially since the hard-shell case keeps it safe when not in use.
Brad about Threaded Hole Saw Arbor for Shield
The Hole Pro adjustable hole cutters are fantastic for large can light holes in most cases but sometimes I need to cut a deeper hole than the 1 1/4" my X-230 allows.
I added the XL- Arbor adapter and can now use any standard thread mounting hole cutter with my X-230 shield. I can use the shield which not only catches the dust, it keeps the hole saw going in straight and level. In many cases I do not know what is behind a ceiling and that includes rodent droppings and possibly wiring or plumbing but I hope I don't hit anything as I am going in blind. It does not happen very often but when it does it can be expensive to fix. Adding the XL-Arbor adapter to my X-230 shield, I can limit how deep the hole cut is so I can stop at 3/4" and limit any possible damage.
I added the XL- Arbor adapter and can now use any standard thread mounting hole cutter with my X-230 shield. I can use the shield which not only catches the dust, it keeps the hole saw going in straight and level. In many cases I do not know what is behind a ceiling and that includes rodent droppings and possibly wiring or plumbing but I hope I don't hit anything as I am going in blind. It does not happen very often but when it does it can be expensive to fix. Adding the XL-Arbor adapter to my X-230 shield, I can limit how deep the hole cut is so I can stop at 3/4" and limit any possible damage.
Larry about 4-3/8" Carbide Grit Hole Saw Cutter
Been remodeling older homes from the 60"s that have a thin up to 1/8" plaster over the dry wall and it just kills toothed saws. This works like butter! Had to laugh when I told the electrician about it and he thought it was used and burnt up! He actually thought the blades had melted. Then he tried it and SOLD!
Toni about 6" Dia Hole Saw Shield and Arbor
They're great I'm going to put them on all of my trucks!
Fritz about 2-5/16" Metal Hole Saw Cutter
I have purchased 5 of these brand hole saws to date in different sizes, and they are very well made and will cut through steel easily, and even stainless steel with some effort. Be sure to lubricate the teeth during use to get maximum life from the tool.
Nick about 1-1/2" Carbide Hole Saw Cutter
Works well with an 18v DeWalt 3-speed drill that has enough torque for even 6 inch Mega hole cutters. I have drilled 2 1/2 inches through alabaster and ipe boards. This hole saw cuts a lot better than high speed steel hole cutters that I have used in the past.
Carl about 6" Carbide Hole Saw Cutter
This thing cuts about 5 times faster than bi-metal hole saws!
Jason about Tungsten Carbide Blade Set
I purchased these as a replacement for blades for Hole Pro X-305 Professional Twin Blade Hole Saw Kit: Infinitely adjustable to cut all size holes between 1-7/8" to 12": Cuts Plywood Sheetrock Plaster Fiberglass OSB Plastic MDF Hardie Board - comes with both Tungsten Carbide and HSS blades . I was worried that I would burn through the tungstun carbide blades the kit came with cutting 12 holes through 1" thick plaster. Turns out I was wrong to worry. I was able to use the original blades that are the exact same as these and they show no sign of wear so I actually did not use these but I can only surmise these would be of the same excellent quality. I ended up keeping these so I can use them when the time comes to switch out the blades.ed.
Jason about Tungsten Carbide Blade Set: 3 PK
I purchased these as a replacement for blades for Hole Pro X-305 Professional Twin Blade Hole Saw Kit: Infinitely adjustable to cut all size holes between 1-7/8" to 12": Cuts Plywood Sheetrock Plaster Fiberglass OSB Plastic MDF Hardie Board - comes with both Tungsten Carbide and HSS blades . I was worried that I would burn through the tungstun carbide blades the kit came with cutting 12 holes through 1" thick plaster. Turns out I was wrong to worry. I was able to use the original blades that are the exact same as these and they show no sign of wear so I actually did not use these but I can only surmise these would be of the same excellent quality. I ended up keeping these so I can use them when the time comes to switch out the blades.ed.
Nick about 2-1/4" Carbide Hole Saw Cutter
I have hardware cloth in my ceiling, so a regular hole saw failed very quickly. This thing ripped two holes in my ceiling and didn't even notice. It's a shame I don't have dozens more to do, because this tool looks ready for real work.
Nick about 2-3/4" Carbide Hole Saw Cutter
I have hardware cloth in my ceiling, so a regular hole saw failed very quickly. This thing ripped two holes in my ceiling and didn't even notice. It's a shame I don't have dozens more to do, because this tool looks ready for real work.
Nick about 1-3/4" Carbide Hole Saw Cutter
I have hardware cloth in my ceiling, so a regular hole saw failed very quickly. This thing ripped two holes in my ceiling and didn't even notice. It's a shame I don't have dozens more to do, because this tool looks ready for real work.
Ron about 9" Dia Hole Saw Shield and Arbor
I bought this product to install larger diameter 6"Â LED lights where I already had 4"Â lights in a drywall ceiling. Great product as not only does it contain the dust and mess, but acts to stabilize the hole saw where there is already a hole. Just remove the arbor for existing holes and use the tension of the shield to keep things steady. One tip is I used my laser to shoot a center line, then traced the shield around each hole before putting into a drill and hoping I was aligned. Use the tracing for my alignment instead of the arbor.
Tim about 1-1/2" Stucco Hole Saw Cutter No Arbor
Excellent for cutting holes in stucco siding as the large tungsten carbide teeth cut though the stucco and the metal lath and the plywood sheating. Before getting this we would be line drilling and chiseling and then cutting out the lath and sheathing and it would take more than 40 minutes per hole. Now we cut the hole in less than a minute. The spring on the drill bit pushes out the stucco plug and makes it easy to clear the hole cutter to make another hole.
This hole cutter works with our existing 5/8" 18 thread arbors.
This hole cutter works with our existing 5/8" 18 thread arbors.
Tim about 2-1/8" Stucco Hole Saw Cutter No Arbor
Excellent for cutting holes in stucco siding as the large tungsten carbide teeth cut though the stucco and the metal lath and the plywood sheating. Before getting this we would be line drilling and chiseling and then cutting out the lath and sheathing and it would take more than 40 minutes per hole. Now we cut the hole in less than a minute. The spring on the drill bit pushes out the stucco plug and makes it easy to clear the hole cutter to make another hole.
This hole cutter works with our existing 5/8" 18 thread arbors.
This hole cutter works with our existing 5/8" 18 thread arbors.
Purchased for DIY installation of recessed lighting in family room, foyer, hall & kitchen, and it's worked extremely well. Exclusively used in drywall ceilings so far. A couple of comments.... (1) Setting the exact radius you need takes some trial and error, so be sure to drill a test hole in a piece of scrap before making potentially under or oversize holes in your ceiling. Once set correctly, replicating the same hole multiple times is a breeze. (2) The large plastic dust cover is great keeping the general work environment clean, especially for work in carpeted areas or around furniture. But don't underestimate the safety aspects of the dust cover.... Without it installed you've got 6" diameter cutting arms with large protrusions swinging at a couple of hundred RPM at the business end of your drill where it can easily entangle with the drill cord, fingers, or other nearby items. Recommend you install the dust cover every time you use this tool, even if it's just a quick test cut on your work bench.
Matt about 2-1/2" Carbide Hole Saw Cutter
Drills quickly and cleanly through wood and stays sharper than the hole saws with teeth. The tungsten carbide teeth outlast dozens of high speed steel or carbide edge hole saws and we can use cordless drills on jobs and no need for stud drills and a generator.
Matt about 3" Carbide Hole Saw Cutter
Drills quickly and cleanly through wood and stays sharper than the hole saws with teeth. The tungsten carbide teeth outlast dozens of high speed steel or carbide edge hole saws and we can use cordless drills on jobs and no need for stud drills and a generator.
George about 6" Carbide Hole Saw Cutter
I used this on inch thick plywood subflooring and was able to cut quickly using a DeWalt 18v cordless drill on its medium speed setting. Tried first hole on the lowest speed setting and it was OK but would jerk a little when it hit a harder section of the plywood. At the middle speed setting it was much smoother. Even on the low speed setting it was a whole lot smoother and easier to use than even the small sizes of the Lenox One Tooth hole cutters which are plain scary to use in a hand held drill.
Clean holes in seconds and the cut plug comes out in seconds. Long tooth life even in MDF, particle board, and plywood. I will never go back to using bi-metal hole saws for anything but metal.
Clean holes in seconds and the cut plug comes out in seconds. Long tooth life even in MDF, particle board, and plywood. I will never go back to using bi-metal hole saws for anything but metal.
George about 5-1/2" Carbide Hole Saw Cutter
I used this on inch thick plywood subflooring and was able to cut quickly using a DeWalt 18v cordless drill on its medium speed setting. Tried first hole on the lowest speed setting and it was OK but would jerk a little when it hit a harder section of the plywood. At the middle speed setting it was much smoother. Even on the low speed setting it was a whole lot smoother and easier to use than even the small sizes of the Lenox One Tooth hole cutters which are plain scary to use in a hand held drill.
Clean holes in seconds and the cut plug comes out in seconds. Long tooth life even in MDF, particle board, and plywood. I will never go back to using bi-metal hole saws for anything but metal.
Clean holes in seconds and the cut plug comes out in seconds. Long tooth life even in MDF, particle board, and plywood. I will never go back to using bi-metal hole saws for anything but metal.
Will about 4-1/4" Stucco Hole Saw Cutter No Arbor
I have used masonry drills on stucco and it is a time consuming process to make lots of little holes, chisel them out without cracking the stucco or brick and then cutting through the plywood behind the stucco using a hole saw. With the Blue Boar stucco bit the tungsten carbide cutting teeth are massive and quickly chew their way through the stucco and keep right on going through the metal lath and through the wood sheathing, all in one pass. Takes one minute to make holes that used to take 30-40 minutes and no risk of damage to the stucco.
These Blue Boar masonry bits also work very well cutting holes in thick plaster, Hardie siding, FRP, and fiberglass. They cut much more quickly and last 20 times as long as a bi-metal hole saw. On one project I was cutting vent holes in fiber cement board and getting 4 holes per each bi-metal hole saw. I switched to the Blue Boar TCT stucco bit and cut dozens of holes in minutes and got the project back on schedule.
The pilot bit is tipped with tungsten so it does its part for a long time. It is 8mm thick (1/4" pilot bits are only 6.35mm) and I have never broken one. Larger sizes of hole cutters use a 10mm pilot drill that would be nearly impossible to break. I use even the 6-1/4" size stucco hole cutter with a 18 volt DeWalt cordless drill and it provides more than enough power. There is also the option of getting the SDS adapter to use with a cutting head and it comes complete with a pilot bit and the ejection spring so you only need to add the cutter.
With a hammer drill the hammer action should be turned off. Unlike the core bits with the blunt carbide tips that rely on hammer action to pound their way through these cutters cut a lot faster and without the hammering the problem of cracking the stucco is eliminated completely.
These Blue Boar masonry bits also work very well cutting holes in thick plaster, Hardie siding, FRP, and fiberglass. They cut much more quickly and last 20 times as long as a bi-metal hole saw. On one project I was cutting vent holes in fiber cement board and getting 4 holes per each bi-metal hole saw. I switched to the Blue Boar TCT stucco bit and cut dozens of holes in minutes and got the project back on schedule.
The pilot bit is tipped with tungsten so it does its part for a long time. It is 8mm thick (1/4" pilot bits are only 6.35mm) and I have never broken one. Larger sizes of hole cutters use a 10mm pilot drill that would be nearly impossible to break. I use even the 6-1/4" size stucco hole cutter with a 18 volt DeWalt cordless drill and it provides more than enough power. There is also the option of getting the SDS adapter to use with a cutting head and it comes complete with a pilot bit and the ejection spring so you only need to add the cutter.
With a hammer drill the hammer action should be turned off. Unlike the core bits with the blunt carbide tips that rely on hammer action to pound their way through these cutters cut a lot faster and without the hammering the problem of cracking the stucco is eliminated completely.
Bill about Let me explain why I think this is the best tool for cutting speaker holes. I cut a lot of holes for mounting speakers in custom cabinets I build. I cut a wide variety of materials like MDF, pine, maple, cherry, and a few exotics like bubinga and padauk. I very rarely need to cut drywall, but when I do, this adjustable cutter is what I use. First, I'll point out why I feel the other types of hole cutters are generally more troublesome.
Over the years, I have owned and used several complete sets of the old inverted cup-type hole cutters, including some rather expensive brands which were advertised to work much better than the other brands. I have come to realize cup-type hole cutters are the absolute worst way to cut a hole. Even when the workpiece is clamped between sacrificial boards, the cup-type cutters often cut ugly ragged holes with so much tear-out that you need to spend a bunch of extra time trying to clean up (or hide) the edges of the holes. Plus, due to the friction of the cutting edge contact area, they put far more strain on your equipment than any other type of hole cutter. The friction they produce at the cutting edge can easily stop a belt drive drill press dead in its tracks, damaging the belt which stops moving while the motor keeps turning. The extreme friction can even cause a fire. It is common to see smoke rising out of the hole you are cutting with a cup-type cutter.
I have also owned a few sets of Forstner bits. If you get the really good brands, Forstner bits are much smoother cutting and honestly do a fairly good job, as long as you are only cutting small holes. Just spend an afternoon attempting to find an 8 inch Forstner bit, if you want to understand why Forstner bits aren't the ideal solution, either. Plus, just like the cup-type bits, the bigger the Forstner bit is, the more strain it puts on your equipment. Cutting big holes with these types of cutters requires immense torque be transmitted through the drive system of your equipment. That is assuming you can even find a Forstner bit large enough for your task.
Now, let's talk about why I believe this adjustable hole cutter is superior to those. This twin-blade adjustable cutter makes better use of the torque provided by your equipment. At any given hole size, your drill only has to exert the amount of force necessary to push two small blades through the wood. The size of those two small blades never changes, so there isn't a large jump in contact friction when you start cutting larger sized holes. This design only requires slightly more force to turn, when moving the blades further apart to cut a larger hole. That extra required force simply offsets the reduction in mechanical leverage which occurs when the blades are moved further apart. The important difference is that the frictional resistance to cutting remains constant regardless of the hole size. So, a 10-inch hole requires only slightly more power than a 5-inch hole. Using a cup-type hole cutter might require 8-16 times the force to go from cutting a hole that is 5 inches in diameter up to cutting a hole that is 10 inches in diameter. Having used all of these types of cutters for years, I can attest to this being a huge factor in successfully cutting a large hole.
The huge reduction in required force to cut the hole is only one benefit. This hole cutter also cost me a lot less than the huge pile of cup-type and Forstner cutters I've purchased over time. In fact, I have one largish Forstner bit which cost more than this entire adjustable cutter kit when purchased alone. Anyone who thinks this adjustable bit is expensive should look at the cost of buying large sets of Forstner bits to cut all of the same hole sizes this cutter can make. In reality, buying all of those Forstner bits could cost as much as you spent on your car. And you would likely never find a 11-3/8" Forstner bit at ANY price so that multi-thousand dollar Forstner collection would still fall short of what this bit can do.
Just to be clear, I'm not saying this will replace all the other hole cutters you use. For quick small holes, it is still more time-efficient to pop in a Forstner and drill it. This two-blade adjustable cutter requires you to accurately set the distance from the center to both blades in order to cut the desired hole size. That makes it supremely flexible but takes a little extra time to prepare to make your cut. When you're cutting large and/or unusual sized holes in plaster, drywall, plywood, MDF, particleboard, plastic, acrylic, polystyrene, or dozens of other similar materials, this is really the tool you want to use. BUT keep in mind that this is not a cutter designed for use on any type of even slightly hardened metal. Never try to use it for ferrous or hardened metal unless you want to destroy and replace your blades every 15 seconds. Luckily, the replacements are not expensive in case you forget my warning and try to cut an extra porthole in the side of your personal submarine.
To sum it up, if you cut a lot of medium to large-sized holes, buy this tool. It's honestly no exaggeration when I say this cutter should really be seen as a crazy good bargain for the time and effort it will save you over its lifetime.
Over the years, I have owned and used several complete sets of the old inverted cup-type hole cutters, including some rather expensive brands which were advertised to work much better than the other brands. I have come to realize cup-type hole cutters are the absolute worst way to cut a hole. Even when the workpiece is clamped between sacrificial boards, the cup-type cutters often cut ugly ragged holes with so much tear-out that you need to spend a bunch of extra time trying to clean up (or hide) the edges of the holes. Plus, due to the friction of the cutting edge contact area, they put far more strain on your equipment than any other type of hole cutter. The friction they produce at the cutting edge can easily stop a belt drive drill press dead in its tracks, damaging the belt which stops moving while the motor keeps turning. The extreme friction can even cause a fire. It is common to see smoke rising out of the hole you are cutting with a cup-type cutter.
I have also owned a few sets of Forstner bits. If you get the really good brands, Forstner bits are much smoother cutting and honestly do a fairly good job, as long as you are only cutting small holes. Just spend an afternoon attempting to find an 8 inch Forstner bit, if you want to understand why Forstner bits aren't the ideal solution, either. Plus, just like the cup-type bits, the bigger the Forstner bit is, the more strain it puts on your equipment. Cutting big holes with these types of cutters requires immense torque be transmitted through the drive system of your equipment. That is assuming you can even find a Forstner bit large enough for your task.
Now, let's talk about why I believe this adjustable hole cutter is superior to those. This twin-blade adjustable cutter makes better use of the torque provided by your equipment. At any given hole size, your drill only has to exert the amount of force necessary to push two small blades through the wood. The size of those two small blades never changes, so there isn't a large jump in contact friction when you start cutting larger sized holes. This design only requires slightly more force to turn, when moving the blades further apart to cut a larger hole. That extra required force simply offsets the reduction in mechanical leverage which occurs when the blades are moved further apart. The important difference is that the frictional resistance to cutting remains constant regardless of the hole size. So, a 10-inch hole requires only slightly more power than a 5-inch hole. Using a cup-type hole cutter might require 8-16 times the force to go from cutting a hole that is 5 inches in diameter up to cutting a hole that is 10 inches in diameter. Having used all of these types of cutters for years, I can attest to this being a huge factor in successfully cutting a large hole.
The huge reduction in required force to cut the hole is only one benefit. This hole cutter also cost me a lot less than the huge pile of cup-type and Forstner cutters I've purchased over time. In fact, I have one largish Forstner bit which cost more than this entire adjustable cutter kit when purchased alone. Anyone who thinks this adjustable bit is expensive should look at the cost of buying large sets of Forstner bits to cut all of the same hole sizes this cutter can make. In reality, buying all of those Forstner bits could cost as much as you spent on your car. And you would likely never find a 11-3/8" Forstner bit at ANY price so that multi-thousand dollar Forstner collection would still fall short of what this bit can do.
Just to be clear, I'm not saying this will replace all the other hole cutters you use. For quick small holes, it is still more time-efficient to pop in a Forstner and drill it. This two-blade adjustable cutter requires you to accurately set the distance from the center to both blades in order to cut the desired hole size. That makes it supremely flexible but takes a little extra time to prepare to make your cut. When you're cutting large and/or unusual sized holes in plaster, drywall, plywood, MDF, particleboard, plastic, acrylic, polystyrene, or dozens of other similar materials, this is really the tool you want to use. BUT keep in mind that this is not a cutter designed for use on any type of even slightly hardened metal. Never try to use it for ferrous or hardened metal unless you want to destroy and replace your blades every 15 seconds. Luckily, the replacements are not expensive in case you forget my warning and try to cut an extra porthole in the side of your personal submarine.
To sum it up, if you cut a lot of medium to large-sized holes, buy this tool. It's honestly no exaggeration when I say this cutter should really be seen as a crazy good bargain for the time and effort it will save you over its lifetime.
Lars about 5-1/2" Metal Hole Saw Cutter
I have purchased 5 of these brand hole saws to date in different sizes, and they are very well made and will cut through steel easily, and even stainless steel with some effort. Be sure to lubricate the teeth during use to get maximum life from the tool.
Bruce about Hole Saw Cutter Starter Case
I was looking for a case to hold some of my hole saws, and found the Blue Boar starter kit. WOW! What a bargain. I not only got the case that can hold 8 of my hole saws when I stack them, I also got 3 pilot bits and an arbor. The price was incredible. I am extremely happy with the quality of the case, pilot bits and arbor. Thank you!
Brad about 1" Metal Hole Saw Cutter
This is the second size Blue Boar TCT Metal Pro hole cutter that I have purchased. These cutters do better than any others that I've tried. When I need to cut a different size hole in metal, I'll buy my third Blue Boar.
My Account
Reviews
- saves you money on buying different size hole saws and has dust protectorKen
- Read All Reviews...
Testimonials
It will save you time and money, plus provide exact size holes every time.
Bill, Home Theater Installer
Your tool is well engineered and holds up to a great deal of stress. This includes a recent...
Scott S
I have been using my Hole Pro adjustable hole cutter for over 5 years, and I only need to buy...
Tom
We use the X-305 to install ceiling speakers in our whole house music systems. We get perfect...
Stuart, Home Theater Installer
I cut 9 holes in drywall. 3 at 3", 4 at 6.5", 2 at 9.5". It was wonderful. Clean cuts and clean...
John S, Contractor
